PfSense on Firebox X550e: A few questions
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There have been some fixes gone in for things like that since 2.1 was released. The easiest thing is to try one of the 2.1.1 snapshots which have the fixes in place.
https://forum.pfsense.org/index.php/topic,71546.0/topicseen.htmlSteve
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Hi - I am on-line and using my pfSense X550e. The 2.2.1 release worked like a charm, and as a bonus feature the LED nic lights work; guess Stephen's patch made into the new release. Thanks for all your help. I am almost finished with this project, just need to build the on off switch and attach the barrel adapter for my picoPSU to where the other plug was. Think I will use some plexi-glass and screws, if not I will figure something else out.
Next project - finish building my server rack - got all the word cut and now I have to assemble them with the metal uprights.
dwfa
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I would be amazed if my led patch had made it into anything. It was a hideous bodge! ::)
Very interesting that you say the LEDs have started behaving I wonder if a newer sk driver has made it in. Time to check the source…Steve
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Building the on/off switch.
I received my mini-fit jr plugs they fit :-). This might be a simple question; does it matter the rocker switch that I get as long as it it rated for the same AMPS and voltage? As well does it matter if it is DC or AC rated? I would think it is does matter; but I am no expert.
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Switches usually have a rating for both AC and DC current. The DC rating is almost always lower because it's harder to break dc current and it damages the contacts more. The voltage rating of any switch is probably higher than the 12V you're switching but the current might be an issue in the small format on the existing switch.
The original switch:
http://www.rongfeng.com.tw/pdf/RF-1003.pdf
Doesn't seem to have an explicitly indicated DC rating. The '(4)' rating could be for an inductive load. At 12V DC you should be good for the 3-4A the box might draw.Steve
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Thanks for the info. I think I understand what you are writing. hmmmm - from what you are writing I gather the switch might not work due to "hard to break the dc current". Did I understand you correctly?
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That was basically what I was saying although having just read up on it (I should know this stuff but have forgotten) I think an identical switch would be fine. Although it's true that DC current is far harder to break than AC the low voltage tends to cancel that out. Some light reading. If you were using 125V DC then the switch would be toast! Even so you would find if you looked that the switch contact sustain far more damage due to arcing with DC current. How often do you plan on switching it on or off anyway?
Steve
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I don't really plan on doing turning it on/off all that much. It was more for convenience. I think I need to re-evaluate :P the on/off switch thingy.
However, I would still like to mount the dc barrel to the back of the unit where the old plug was; unless you advise against it for safety reasons. Was thinking of plexi-glass with a hole, but I could be swayed to just leave the adapter cord running through the opening and keep it protected like it is now.
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Plexiglass with a hole would be nice. Almost anything with a hole (aluminium, plastic, card even) would be fine. I take it you don't want to drill a hole in the case? My PSU is hardwired which is not a nice solution but it gets disconnected so infrequently it's not an issue.
Steve
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I could drill a new hole, but I would rather just fill up on of the existing ones - but thanks for the thoughts.
