5 or 8 port switch recommendation - daisy-chained downstream from HP 1920
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nog - thanks for the feedback on the TP-Link. I did see some lower cost 8 port HP switches, I'll search again, if needed - possible fix below.
john - my bad, I made a typo on the Netgear model, I meant GS108Tv2. :-\ The Sonos list doesn't distinguish whether it's all GS108v2, or a specific model (GS108, GS108E and/or GS108T). Given my problem (below) I assumed my model Netgear is included.
My issue is that the Netgear switch works fine with my Ruckus AP and Apple TV connected, but when I connect the Sonos Connect (aka Bridge), I experience extreme latency across the LAN.
So, Netgear just told me I need to enable STP on the switch and it will work. I will give it a try this evening. :D
Further information, for anyone interested: https://en.community.sonos.com/troubleshooting-228999/sonos-and-the-spanning-tree-protocol-16973
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Yeah if your sonos is on wifi and wired and it bridges that would cause big problem. STP will block the port…
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So, Netgear just told me I need to enable STP on the switch and it will work. I will give it a try this evening. :D
Ewww why wouldn't it be enabled by default, the bunch of chumps.
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I would assume not enabled by default because the admin of the network should configure it how they want. Do they want RTP or RSTP? Rare that a such small switch would be a root bridge, etc. I would assume that many a users of such switches never even log into the gui and use it as just dumb switch.
I could see someone else complaining WTF they have STP enabled out of the box default for? ;)
You can never win… No matter what you do.
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HP 1810-8 maybe?
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Why wireless and wired on the sonos? Shouldn't it be one or the other?
The easiest way to prevent layer 2 loops would be to not make the loop in the first place.
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Why wireless and wired on the sonos? Shouldn't it be one or the other?
The easiest way to prevent layer 2 loops would be to not make the loop in the first place.
It's a mesh device, that's kind of the point.
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Then only one or none should be connected to wired I would think.
If they expect functioning STP on home networks they're in for a long, hard ride.
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If they expect STP on home networks they're in for a long, hard ride.
No, they need at least that the switch won't block their own STP from letting them figure out that they are looping. Most consumer dumb switches are ok for that–they don't understand the STP broadcasts and just pass them along like anything else. Where they run into problem is semi-smart switches that filter the STP broadcasts without actually participating in STP. My newer netgear has a "Forward BPDU while STP Disabled" option to at least control that behavior rather than silently (and unconditionally) dump them. On smarter switches you can fix that by turning on STP, but if a vendor has a semi-smart switch that knows enough about STP to not broadcast a BPDU but not enough to actually participate in STP (presumably so it can be sold at a different price point than the same ASIC with a different GUI) then you need a new switch or a new speaker system.
They'll probably have fewer problems than google has run into trying to actually use multicast in the chromecast. It's amazing how many ways vendors can find to screw that up.
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When using a SONOS bridge all other devices must reside on their own WLAN mesh. No Playbar etc. may be connected with an ethernet cable or other WIFI.
That's what is so bad about their design: having to use their self "managed" mesh WLAN network in a usually crowded HF environment.
But since everybody but me (and three others…) uses SONOS it has to be great...
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But since everybody but me uses SONOS it has to be great…
I find it hard to believe that "everybody" puts thousands of dollars into home speakers.
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::)
Did I mention that I even sell this stuff to clients? Still don't like it, though. Want one? :P -
I find it hard to believe that "everybody" puts thousands of dollars into home speakers.
There are people where spending $1000 on their speakers is like you and me spending $100… Cost is always relative.. There are many more where it would be like you spending $1 on speakers for your house...
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I find it hard to believe that "everybody" puts thousands of dollars into home speakers.
There are people where spending $1000 on their speakers is like you and me spending $100… Cost is always relative.. There are many more where it would be like you spending $1 on speakers for your house...
Sure, and that's pretty much "everybody", right?
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No it is not everybody - but its way more people then people think.. which was my point… They sell a shitton of them ;) So yeah lots and lots of people have them. No its not everyone.. But its enough that they are very very common and you will see them in many homes you go to...
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Oh come on, you know how "everybody" was meant.
But its enough that they are very very common
So much so that even Crestron (as my preferred control system / AV distribution vendor) offers them to their US dealers. It's the only 3rd party device they ever sold in their 40 or so years history.
(Except for one pre-configured Dell server and some OEM/ODM devices)SONOS is massive in the market. The only real contender was SlimDevices with their SqueezeBoxes. After being bought by Logitech they borked the productline and shut it down shortly after.
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Well, for me, Sonos was the most cost effective system to provide multi-room audio with multiple sources and independent room output in an existing home. Some areas are accessible via wire, but others had to be wireless. YMMV
Back to the Netgear switch: enabling STP did not fix the problem. I'm looking at ordering the HP 1820-8G, currently $80 on NewEgg as a replacement.
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How many SONOS devices do you have and which of them are connected by copper?
I'm not convinced that a different switch will solve your problems. Start with the bridge and one Play-device while the others are shut down. Add one at a time until your problem reappears.
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jahonix - I have 4 that are directly wired to the HP switch and 3 that attach to the Sonos 'mesh' wireless network (separate from home wifi) - and then the Connect unit that is attached to the second switch. Everything works fine with the 4 wired to the switch and the Connect not attached.
The 3 wireless units are on the edge of the range of the 4 wired units (they still transmit the wireless signal), so the Connect, which is about halfway in between, provides a better wireless connection.
You may be right and I suppose I don't have to have the Connect wired to the second switch, but it's the way I have always had it configured. If the HP 1810 doesn't work, I will try setting it up as wireless-only. It took me several days of troubleshooting to determine that the Sonos unit was causing the problems, so I'm just interested in seeing if I can get it working correctly (wired).
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… the 4 wired units (they still transmit the wireless signal)
THAT is your packet storm problem saturating the channel.
so I'm just interested in seeing if I can get it working correctly (wired).
AFAIK you either go wired OR wireless with a single bridge inbetween segments. No other unit than the bridge is supposed to be dual-linked (or one device like a Playbar acting as bridge).
Simply relying on (R)STP is bad by design and obviously doesn't work.The inability to configure the SONOS-Mesh to client's needs is what I really dislike about their philosophy.
