create a new firewall rules
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@johnpoz said in create a new firewall rules:
My sg300-28 uses.. 20w, and is fanless so silent
Luckily electricity is very inexpensive here, cheapest in Canada, at about 7.3¢/kWh, so I'm not too concerned with the cost of running the gear, but I totally agree with you about the fan noise. I keep my home office space free of noisy devices and put all the loud stuff in another room.
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Well @Gil being from OZ is a bit different.. Prob about 25 cents per kWh I would guess. Even if with exchange rate that still way more than what I pay..
Your paying with exchange rate like less than half what it costs by me..
Lets not forget delivery changes - those add up.. I have become quite aware of electric costs as of late, going solar has shined a new light on how those costs can add up.. Anything that can keep me under what I can produce is also a plus..
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@johnpoz Not a bad guess there, we're around 30 cents per kWh.
Not great when you think we produce more gas and coal than almost anywhere in the world. Solar is certainly the better solution and that is in abundance in such a hot country, and really coming on .
Love the little Marvell appliances when it comes to power drain.11 cheers for binary
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@gil Is that counting delivery charges and such - then yeah 30 cents kwh would be in line with my guess ;)
Like all marketing nonsense - they always tell you what they charge for the electric, leaving out the cost of delivery.. and taxes, etc.. which when you just take what you pay, and how much you actually used works out to more than what they say electric costs ;)
Example of BS costs... Even when I produce more electric in the month than I use... I still have to pay the electric company almost $15, just to be connected.. So even if I never pulled a kwh from the grid.. Say was on battery... Still cost me $175 year just to be connected to the grid..
And you can't pay that with your net metering credits..
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I'm also in Sydney. Here's a snap from an email I got from AGL (retailer) in July:
Yep, the "average" will be ~30c/kWh but peak (2-8 pm) is where they get you.
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@biggsy Supply charge like a buck a day.. Not based on what you use, but just a buck.. So even if you used 2 kwh, it would be a buck.. F!! me!! You guys getting screwed..
So yeah for sure which switch better the 64w idle 100w in use, or the 20w full use switch ;) And pretty much you wouldn't want to run anything during peak..
Can see why so many go solar in OZ.. They clearly top of the pile here
https://pvoutput.org/country.jsp
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@johnpoz said:
Can see why so many go solar in OZ..
Yeah, but be prepared to store what you generate. In this state, the feed-in tariff is a "guideline" of between 4.5 and 5.5c/kWh - < 10% of peak charges - but it's completely up to the retailer to decide whether they pay you anything at all.
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Yeah I don't get it to be honest.. I get it, your connected to them and hey I can pull power from you - ok there is overhead charge me for being connected.
But the real thing that pisses me off for my connection is they zero out your carry over for your net metering.. It should just carry over.. But on april 1, if I have say 200 kwh saved up -- they just zero them out.. They don't even give my 1cent for them.. They are just gone..
The whole thing with climate change and emissions, and etc. etc.. But hey fuck the guy that is trying to help the planet and hopefully doing the responsible thing...
Some places for sure have it worse then me.. But shouldn't we being in this together - and if someone putting panels on their roof can help with how much coal is burned, etc.. Shouldn't we be helping the guy make it more viable for more people to do it - and give them incentives to do it.. Vs making it harder.. You zeroing out my net positive input to the grid is you just grabbing profit.. and its utter BS plain and simple.. I could see that they could loose value but just zero them out is nonsense..
edit: wow this has gone really off topic ;)
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@johnpoz Yep, I think we have hit a nerve for all of us here.
The State Governments used to own the poles and wires here, which is appropriate to give the community control of the distribution grid.
Now we are at the mercy of monopolies and any shared power from self generated plants is not in the interest of power companies.
But we digress, the important issue is to ensure our "always on" devices are very power efficient as our houses become filled with hundreds of devices. IoT in everything - which I love; but.... -
I disagree with this statement from johnpoz:"Not even counting the tplink ones - because well, they have a bad track record of not understanding vlans.. But current model would prob work as well."
I have three managed switches, D-Link 16 ports v2, tp-link 8 ports and Zyxel 8 ports (managed PoE switch for cams). All of them reside in the hot attic of my Florida home. I have had no issues with these switches, almost two years, in that hot attic. They do a great job keeping my network segmented from each other via vlans. Unfortunately, the tplink has an undeserved bad reputation. This is because, in my humble opinion, most users don't understand the concept of vlan and how to setup it up, hence the poor reputation. Yes, the GUI is a little cumbersome compared to other switches; for example, PVID setup is on a separate screen. To me this is a minor issue. Overall... in terms of performance, it is a solid little switch at a competitive price. I got my for under $25.00 from Amazon and very happy with it.
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There were some TP-Link switches that leaked traffic between VLANs because the switch GUI did not allow removing VLAN 1 from all ports. Not a config issue, an actual bug. I have one, I would not recommend it!
But that's an old model I picked up second hand because it was cheap and I needed more ports. It has been reliable, if leaky. I don't try to use VLANs on it.
I also have a TP-Link T1700G-28TQ that I would definitely recommend. It does everything I've asked of it and silently.
Steve
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@stephenw10 said in create a new firewall rules:
There were some TP-Link switches that leaked traffic between VLANs because the switch GUI did not allow removing VLAN 1 from all ports.
I can add to that an HP Procurve 1800-8G; you'd think that a name brand product such as that wouldn't have issues, but it does! IPv6 multicast packets don't stay in their own VLAN but instead go out all ports all the time, this of course breaks ND, DHCP6 to name but a few. For instance, a windows 10 machine gets an IPv6 address on every DHCP6 enabled VLAN visible to the switch; broken to say the least.
I suspect there are several switch vendors that have problematic ASICs in them, hence newer gear tends to be more reliable when doing advanced networking. -
@ghost-0 said in create a new firewall rules:
most users don't understand the concept of vlan and how to setup it up, hence the poor reputation.
No that is not why they had a bad reputation - they got a bad reputation because they wouldn't let you remove vlan 1 from any port.. Took them like 2 years to fix it, and then they never stated you could apply it to models before v3..
I could never in good conscious suggest anyone buy one of their switches - sorry but what they did was just F'd up showing zero understanding of how vlans work at even a basic level.
Had zero to do with user understanding what a pvid is..
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It is still not cool to continue disparaging a company for past sins.
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@ghost-0 Tell that to the thousands of people that bought the switch that said it would do vlans. Which it can't. Pretty much amounted to just running multiple layer 3 on the same layer 2. Any freaking dumb switch could do that.. With zero compensation and no fix.. If you were v1 or v2 you just got hung out to dry.. Oh well I guess - buy version X, we fixed it...
I don't go out of my way to bad mouth them.. But there are plenty of other brands to choose from - if people ask me what I would suggest. They are just not one of them..
btw - notice I stated "But current model would prob work as well." I just didn't link to one.. They have a bad track record... Lookup vlan 1 tplink yourself if you don't believe me..
