Quality PSU?
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Supermicro 2758 motherboard, I am looking for a quality PSU. The case I bought came with a 300-w psu that was garbage. Any suggestions? I have been reading posts say get platinum/gold….
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i've never had a garbage psu anywhere … what make it "suck' ?
only difference in psu's i've found is the efficiency (in other words loss when converting voltages)
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Crap capacitors, crap solder, crap fans, too little heat sink, not enough amps available, unstable voltage… Lots of things can make a PSU suck.
Find one with LOTS of ratings and very few complaints. mini-itx form factor?
Cheap and few complaints:
This one is interesting because it seems to accept anything between very low and very high voltage without touching a switch....
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817338081
You also have to read the ratings to see if people are whining about something you won't care about (-:
I consider fire/sparks a big deal, but sometimes people are fairly stupid and bring it on themselves. Not setting the voltage switch?
Whatever you pick, pay attention to the ATX connector. You need 24 pins.
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This one is interesting because it seems to accept anything between very low and very high voltage without touching a switch….
You also have to read the ratings to see if people are whining about something you won't care about (-:
I consider fire/sparks a big deal, but sometimes people are fairly stupid and bring it on themselves. Not setting the voltage switch?
Was browsing the site and felt the need to comment here. OP, do not ever buy a passive PFC PSU (the kind with a voltage switch). I don't know if there are even any passive PFC power supplies that actually have an 80 Plus rating due to how inefficient it is.
That being said, what case is this going in? Is this a server case, ATX PS supporting case, or a mini-ITX case? The biggest things to look at are the OEM who makes the powersupply (Seasonic and superflower are my favorites after delta, but they're all generally more expensive), the voltages on the rails, and reviews from power supply sites. I enjoy the jonnyguru reviews a lot, and they get in depth with ripple suppression and power spike testings. There are other great sites as well. Newegg and amazon reviews should be taken with a grain of salt unless they're well constructed and thought out.
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seasonic or supermicro psu
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Supermicro 2758 motherboard, I am looking for a quality PSU. The case I bought came with a 300-w psu that was garbage. Any suggestions? I have been reading posts say get platinum/gold….
You need to tell us what kind of case you bought since not all boxes use the same size PSU.
Also, which C2758 board? SuperMicro's Mini-ITX Avoton/Rangeley boards can be powered directly by DC. The uATX boards need an actual PSU for the AC->DC conversion.
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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371033
This is the psu I am thinking about getting.I currently don't have a case.
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Looks nice and cheap with not alot of complaints… Still, need to make sure it fits your case.
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I have this one in my pfsense 1U case: (Seasonic SS-250SU)
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cases/display/seasonic-psu-roundup-2_4.html#sect0Works flawlessly, quite and do so running very cool.
This is my first Seasonic but not the last one.
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Supermicro 2758 motherboard, I am looking for a quality PSU. The case I bought came with a 300-w psu that was garbage. Any suggestions? I have been reading posts say get platinum/gold….
Which Case did you get?
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http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Atom/X10/A1SRM-2758F.cfm
Micro ATXI am thinking about getting this PSU…
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16817371033No case right now, I returned it with the case I bought.
I was thinking about this case
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OULNPA2/ref=s9_simh_gw_d0_g147_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-1&pf_rd_r=075P048836RM0G6RVWKW&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2015187942&pf_rd_i=mobile
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Supermicro 2758 motherboard, I am looking for a quality PSU. The case I bought came with a 300-w psu that was garbage. Any suggestions? I have been reading posts say get platinum/gold….
Unless your configuration is pulling > 20% of the load rating continuously, you will not see a big difference between high-efficiency versus regular power supplies. That said, my standard ATX/EPS form factor power supply is the SeaSonic SS-400FL2. It has two features that make it worth my money: The modular cable system and the quality of the components. It's also fanless and carries an 80 Plus Platinum rating, if that is your cup of tea.
I tend to use whichever PSU the vendor ships with rackmount cases. There are some notable exceptions, but most vendors include an appropriate PSU up to the task of continuous duty med-/high-load draw.
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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371033
This is the psu I am thinking about getting.I currently don't have a case.
get something more along the lines of server grade. get a corsair if you want to cheap out
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I don't know - I like cheap when there are very low numbers of failure reports.
543 ratings and 90% of the people using that like it. Cheap or not, its proven.
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EA-380D is supposedly delta OEM, which is about the best OEM you can get. They're the ones who make power supplies for many company's servers. Never look at newegg or amazon reviews, half the people who get items don't review, just the ones that have "coil whine" and blame it on the PSU instead of the load that they're putting on their PS. Look at real reviews that use an oscilloscope the measure voltage regulation and ripple as loads change:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/3902/antec-earthwatts-ea-380d-green-380w
I normally prefer atleast gold efficiency for PSUs that go into machines running 24/7, but if you're going to keep it at a ridiculously low capacity (such as an atom cpu) it won't make much difference. Corsair has been moving towards lower quality channel well PSUs for their low end, they're not as good as they once were for cheap PSUs:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=416
Edit: Didn't see this post, but it's correct.
Unless your configuration is pulling > 20% of the load rating continuously, you will not see a big difference between high-efficiency versus regular power supplies. That said, my standard ATX/EPS form factor power supply is the SeaSonic SS-400FL2. It has two features that make it worth my money: The modular cable system and the quality of the components. It's also fanless and carries an 80 Plus Platinum rating, if that is your cup of tea.
I tend to use whichever PSU the vendor ships with rackmount cases. There are some notable exceptions, but most vendors include an appropriate PSU up to the task of continuous duty med-/high-load draw.
That PSU is a bit pricey, but it's pretty amazing. I ended up cheaping out and getting the Seasonic SSR-360GP instead which is gold rating + a fan.
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What's your budget?
Supoermicro have a nice case for that board, with 500W+ supply
SuperChassis CSE-813MTQ-520CB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811152112&cm_re=520CB--11-152-112--Product
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I decided to call my local computer stores till I found a quality PSU. I ended up getting
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153023&cm_re=tr2-430w--17-153-023--Product for $8.60 it was used but it tests out fine. I also picked up a computer case for $20. I decided I didn't care about the look right now. "Will post pictures later" I also bought two fans and now my system runs at 20.0 Degrees C it use to run around 55C.
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Actually… Its not bad for the price. Price matters.
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I am happy with this PSU over my last no name PSU. I am already noticing a huge difference. Random question, why I enter the BIOS config and turn on "Watchdog" why does my pfsense keep restarting after about 1 min after it boots up. If I turn off watchdog it runs fine.
Anyone have any reviews on this PSU? When you say price matters do you mean for $8 its an ok PSU? or overall its an ok PSU.
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I would not consider that a quality PSU, I wouldn't even use it. Passive PFC shows its age. I've looked for reviews on it but I can't find anything solid as it seems like they've changed the internals for the samme model since 2005 at least. The efficiency is going to be somewhere around 73% at best, and I have no idea what the ripple would look like.
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That was also my first thought, but at the price he got it for, unless it causes something to fry, I can't criticize it.
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I have been running it for almost 24 hours now and everything seems stable. For the price I am happy with it & to have something up and running.
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Lots of guys here have lots of money for tinkering so its always top of the line or nothing, which is a nice philosophy if you have the money for it.
I prioritize reliability first and foremost so if, for the money, I get super reliable but less efficient, I'm ok.
But when buying new components I do try to get both efficiency and reliability. I have several of those old style psu running also and am quite happy.
Have some of the new ones also and am also quite happy. I'm easy.
Plus I'm not going to toss out all my old/reliable proven gear just because someone somewhere got a better number on a benchmark.
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Having worked on computer since a young child as both hobby and some decent money, how I afforded my Voodoo2, I'd rather go without than have to waste my time with crap hardware. I've been bitten way too many times.
A lot of crappy hardware operate in a grey area where you get random problems from time to time with no perceivable pattern. High quality hardware tends to be binary, it works or it doesn't.
An example of something like that is some low end PSUs will attempt with all of their might to keep supplying power, even if the voltage is out of spec. Higher end PSUs like to maintain voltage and if it drops too low, it cuts off all power at once and shutsdown. During my time as IT, I've seen times where many computers with cheap PSUs would cause corruption by allowing voltage sags through and not turning off.
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Lots of guys here have lots of money for tinkering so its always top of the line or nothing, which is a nice philosophy if you have the money for it.
I prioritize reliability first and foremost so if, for the money, I get super reliable but less efficient, I'm ok.
But when buying new components I do try to get both efficiency and reliability. I have several of those old style psu running also and am quite happy.
Have some of the new ones also and am also quite happy. I'm easy.
Plus I'm not going to toss out all my old/reliable proven gear just because someone somewhere got a better number on a benchmark.
Re-using old stuff is perfectly fine in most cases, I have an old 2008 ion/atom netbox computer that I still use as a small HTPC hooked up to a monitor for when I do my nightly cardio.
But when it comes to powering something 24/7 and looking for a "quality PSU," as was stated in the subject of this thread, then no, that is NOT a quality PSU. That's a cheap PSU that was considered low quality when it came out 7 years ago. If OP is fine with hooking it up to his system, that's his choice. I'm just saying I wouldn't have taken it for free, nor would I put it near a new $300+ motherboard/cpu combo.
In the end it's your equipment and your decision. I'm not suggesting you buy something top of the line, but just about anything modern is better than that PSU.
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Other than being an old design I don't think there is anything wrong with the PSU - If he had a $50 budget for a PSU, maybe he would gotten a newer one.
I'd be interested to know what the total cost of this was so that we can put into proper perspective how much money is at risk if the PSU were to fry his hardware.
Seems like it will be a super super cheap system in the end.
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Other than being an old design I don't think there is anything wrong with the PSU - If he had a $50 budget for a PSU, maybe he would gotten a newer one.
I'd be interested to know what the total cost of this was so that we can put into proper perspective how much money is at risk if the PSU were to fry his hardware.
Seems like it will be a super super cheap system in the end.
Cheap capacitors, bad voltage regulation, probably terrible ripple filtering, low efficiency, probably lacking in overcurrent/overvoltage protection, overrated rails, etc. The same stuff that plagues all cheap PSUs. He posted his motherboard on the first page, it's one of the supermicro atom boards which are $330 a piece, plus whatever he put in the build for RAM and storage. That motherboard/cpu alone deserve a minimum $50 PSU considering you can get a quad core xeon and motherboard for a similar price.
PS: I keep forgetting to respond, but my recommendation is just to turn off watchdog unless you're having issues with the computer hanging. It's rebooting because you don't have the proper software installed, that's its purpose. The software essentially resets the watchdog timer so that the computer doesn't reboot, it's like a dead man's trigger. Once the computer hard locks, the software can no longer reset the timer, and watchdog hard reboots the computer.
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I prioritize reliability first and foremost so if, for the money, I get super reliable but less efficient, I'm ok.
for the record, less efficient supplier are more expensive in the ling run, specially if run 24/7
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When you're talking about a 10% difference on 30watts of power, that's 3 watts. I wouldn't be concerned about pennies per month so much than the risk of wasting time or damaging hardware from something cheap.
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When you're talking about a 10% difference on 30watts of power, that's 3 watts. I wouldn't be concerned about pennies per month so much than the risk of wasting time or damaging hardware from something cheap.
it is more than pennies, it added up quick, but yes reliability is important
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I have this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256097&cm_re=silverstone_SFX--17-256-097--Product one for a couple months with zero problems
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A 3 watt diff is about $0.20/month @ $0.10/KWH. Even if you pushed it to 15 watts, you'd have to be averaging about a 150watt draw 24/7, and you'd still be looking at a $1 difference per month. The biggest benefit to higher efficiency is reduced heat output.
But then again, I'm that guy that is obsessed With quality: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817151088 Wife's PSU
This is on my radar: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151121
But I already have a bronze Antec, which is just a rebadged Seasonic.
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why I enter the BIOS config and turn on "Watchdog" why does my pfsense keep restarting after about 1 min after it boots up. If I turn off watchdog it runs fine.
That's what it's supposed to do.
When you enable the watchdog timer you get a countdown that runs on some low level device, often the SuperIO chip or Southbridge but could be a dedicated microcontroller. If that timer ever gets to 0 it hard resets the system. The idea is that you enable something in software that runs at at higher frequency, say once every 30s, that resets the watchdog timer. This in known as patting the watchdog. That way if the OS crashes or suffers some other failure the system automatically reboots after a minute.There are FreeBSD drivers to allow you to do that in combination with the cron package in pfSense though I've never tried it myself.
Edit: Missed Pylor's response already. ::)
Steve
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I prefer to muzzle the watchdog by turning that annoying shit off (-:
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This is on my radar: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151121
Slightly off topic, but that's the PSU I have in my main gaming desktop, and it's a beast. They get down to $100 now and then on the American side of amazon.
