Tonight at a restaurant, using Wi-Fi, I got 4 Mbps on speedtest in the browser. I then connected to VPN, and got the same 4 Mbps on the speedtest. I think that's strong evidence that my home ISP is not throttling.
I then turned off both Wifi and VPN. Got 220 Mbps on speedredt in the browser. With VPN, could not even get the speedrest going. OpenVPN showed about 80 bytes/s throughput, ie. Less than 1 kilobit/s as I saw before in my OP.
Perhaps it is the cell carrier throttling. I'm using US Mobile, a T-Mobile MVNO. I will ask them what's going on. They are not supposed to throttle VPNs, and I believe it's illegal here. I would like to rule out any technical problems with my pfSense config, though, before I contact the CPUC and FCC.